12-Mar-2015
San Blas/Ensenada de Mantanchen
They say you can’t go back…. Well, San Blas has been a
special place for me for many years and has been the setting of some of my most
oft repeated stories from earlier travels. The sail from Isla Isabel had morning
winds that moved us well but died by noon so we motored the final few hours.
Mags with Kanilela and Music III at anchor |
Even in the late sixties San Blas had a reputation for the
Jejenes (hayhaynays, smaller than a no-see-um and much more irritating), so I
planned to anchor down the coast in Ensenada de Mantanchen, with enough sea
room that the little vampires would be blown away by the sea breezes.
It worked
and although reputed to be a rolly anchorage we spent two calm nights on the
hook. The bay is so shallow we were about ½ mile out in only 11 feet. There
were only three boats and one left during the very early hours of the morning,
the other was Music III with Bryan and Sharen from Black Diamond, Alberta.
The next morning we took a taxi for the 5 km from Matanchen
Bay into San Blas and enroute our driver stopped to show us the crocodiles in
the lagoon, several well over 2 meters. Definitely not the old Deep Hole
swimming hole on the Nanaimo River!
Although San Blas has grown, the people are
still incredibly welcoming. We stopped at the tourist office to get a map and
the lady there was amazingly helpful and friendly. We walked all over town.
From the newly built Marina north east of town to the beaches on the west side
and up and down most of the streets in between, the people were great. The
marina looks very good but would be a bit of a walk from the Zocalo area in the
town center in the evening and we left town before nightfall so the jejenes may
also be an issue. We didn’t find the old Federale’s office where I had
negotiated a friend’s release at 5:00 am to ensure the amount only had to cover
the night shift and not the dayshift too.
The previously quiet beach is now lined with palapas as is
the beach on Ensenada de Mantanchen. We drank at the beach and ate a fabulous
meal at Ofro’s Restaurant in the town center near the old Zocalo. It turns out
that the tiendas at the beach community at Mantanchen are famous for their banana
bread so we had to get some for Kanilela’s galley. It was excellent and I did eat more than my share!
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